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Temp & Humidity Control Tips

Temperature And Humidity Control

Temperature and humidity control for indoor grow rooms

Temperature and humidity control measures can become one of the more expensive investments when growing cannabis plants indoors. Although the South African climate is generally pretty good for growing cannabis outdoors in summer, growing year round indoors can present a host of challenges if your growing environment is not set up correctly.

Temperature:

All grow lights emit heat in one way or another. The latest LEDs on the market might emit far less heat than conventional HPS or HID lighting, but nonetheless they still produce heat and all heat can get trapped and build up. Unless you extract or get rid of the hot air in the grow room by replacing it with fresh air, your lights will significantly raise the temperature inside a sealed room.

An extraction fan is needed to get rid of the hot air in your grow room and to provide fresh air that will be drawn in from the negative pressure it creates.  An extraction fan essentially only provides air movement and heat extraction, but it can not physically lower the temperature below that of the surrounding rooms air levels. Make sure you extract and release your hot air in such a way that it does not circulate through your grow area a second time as this will also cause heat to build up.

Too Hot:

In most parts of SA, there aren’t too many days in a year where the temperatures reach over 34°C consistently, and since most of our strains are pretty hardy and heat resistant you should not run into heat stress problems growing outdoors. For indoor growers an airconditioned room is not really feasible in the long run so rather make sure your room is well ventilated or switch off your lights during the day if things get too hot. Constant temperatures over 34°C generally cause heat stress, but as long as you have sufficient airflow and water, your plants should be OK if it’s only that hot for a few days here or there. For outside temperatures regularly above 30°C, you may want to invest in some shade nets for your plants.

Too Cold:

Cold temperatures threaten outdoor growers far more than indoor growers. Cannabis are hardy plants that will only die in constant temperatures of less than 10C, but their growth and yield will be severely limited if you grow in temperatures less than 18C.
To warm things up indoor growers you can simply switch off  the extraction fans, add a heater, or switch the lighting cycle so that it’s on during the coldest parts of the night, and off during the hottest parts of the day. Outdoor growers growing in the heart of winter will have a difficult time in certain regions of our country if they do not bring the plants indoors at night and during heavy storms.

Temperature and humidity meter
Indoor grow fan with clip grip

Humidity:

Humidity is something that can only be controlled indoors or in a greenhouse setup. In most parts of South Africa the humidity is not too bad for growing cannabis all year round, as long as your growing environment is not overgrown and you have sufficient ventilation you should not run into any serious humidity related issues.
Raising the relative humidity inside a grow room is not too difficult and hitting that sweet spot during the various growth phases obviously boosts your growth rate, but lowering or having full control over your humidity comes at a pretty high cost and for the average home grower it might be too costly to invest in something like a dehumidifier for full control.

White Powdery Mildew and Bud rot are some of the fatal consequences one can run into when the humidity is constantly too high, but as long as you take preventative measures and you have plenty of air flow both inside your grow room and through the plant itself, you’re likely to be just fine.

Inline extractor Fan
150mm Flexible aluminium ducting

To raise the relative humidity:

We always recommend putting a see-through plastic cup over any small seedlings or clones that require higher humidity levels. If the humidity gets too high or you want to slowly introduce your plant to the normal humidity outside then you can remove the cup intermittently letting in more fresh air. Once your plant gets too big for a cup and you can place shallow open trays of water around your grow room or switch off your extraction fans in order to raise the humidity inside your grow room. Be very cautious not to over do it or you will attract mold or pest problems.

Seed and Soil Humidity cup week 1

Ideal Growing Conditions for Autoflowers

Growing Autos from sprout to harvest only takes about 10 weeks in total, so having the ideal growing conditions is key to your overall growth speed, plant size and thus final yield.

Our autoflowering cannabis plants are easier to grow than regular cannabis because they can withstand a greater range of environmental conditions outside of the ideal. They can be grown indoors or outdoors right throughout the year in most parts of South Africa and do not require a controlled lighting schedule to initiate flowering.

The ideal temperatures and humidity for autoflowers

Temperature:

  • Week 0 – 2 | 24º C
  • Week 2 – 4 | 26º C
  • Week 4 – 8 | 24º C
  • Week 6 – 10 | 22º C

Humidity:

  • Week 0 – 2 | 70%
  • Week 2 – 4 | 60%
  • Week 4 – 8 | 55%
  • Week 8 – 10 | 45%

Lighting:

  • Week 0 – 4 | 22 – 24 hours | Blue dominant
  • Week 4 – 10 | 20 hours | Red dominant
The Ideal light spectrum for weed plants

Conclusion:

The above conditions are merely a guide to achieve optimum results. In the real world these conditions may be difficult to achieve without additional equipment. Temperature is one of the most important factors, but deviating from these conditions by a few degrees will not kill your plant, it will only slow your growth. Planting your plant at the right time of year or location can go a long way toward success. If you are growing outdoors and it is freezing cold or storming outside, it is advised to bring your plant inside. Wind speeds of 25km/h or more can be harmful to your plant. Temperatures under 18C or over 34C will severely stress your plant if it persists. Humidity is out of your control in most cases, but in South Africa it is stable enough not to harm your plant , just ensure proper airflow at all times.

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The Life Cycle of Cannabis

The Life Cycle Of Cannabis

The Life cycle of a cannabis plant

A Comprehensive Guide to the Cannabis Life Cycle

An auto flower growth cycle from seed to harvest

From Seed to Harvest:

Growing your own bud is a fascinating journey that requires patience, dedication, and a fairly good understanding of the plant’s life cycle. Whether you’re cultivating autoflowers or regular strains, the fundamentals of the growing process remain the same. However, there are some key differences between the two that are important to note. Autoflowering strains have a fixed life cycle and will automatically transition from the vegetative stage to the flowering stage after a few weeks, regardless of their light cycle. Photoperiodic / regular strains, on the other hand, require a change in the light cycle to trigger flowering. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the various stages of the cannabis life cycle, providing tips and best practices to help you achieve a successful harvest.

Germination (2-7 days):

The life cycle of any plant begins with the germination of the seed. To ensure successful germination, start by placing your seeds in a cup of filtered room-temperature (22 -26°C) water for 36-72 hours. Once the seed has cracked open or sunk to the bottom, carefully transfer it to a pre-moistened growing medium, such as soil or a coco coir mix, making sure to avoid any air pockets around the seed. Keep the environment humid and warm, ideally between 20-25°C (65-85% humidity), and your seedling should emerge within 3-6 days.

Cannabis Seed Germination

Tip: It’s crucial to avoid touching the seed or seedling with your bare hands, as oils and bacteria can damage the delicate plant. Use clean hands or a spoon to handle the seed, and consider using a humidity dome or a plastic cup to maintain high humidity levels around the seedling

Seedling Stage (1-3 weeks):

As your seedling breaks through the surface, it enters the most delicate phase of its life. During the first two weeks, your plant is fragile to environmental conditions and requires a high-humidity environment to thrive. The ideal relative humidity level for seedlings is between 65-80%. Avoid overwatering, as this is one of the most common mistakes made by new growers. Provide your seedling with a blue-dominant light spectrum (around 6500K) to encourage compact, bushy growth.

Young cannabis plant sprout

Tip:Seedlings require minimal nutrients and water due to their size. They primarily rely on the energy stored within the seed itself and water from the transplanting. Introduce nutrients gradually, starting at 1/4 strength and increasing to 1/2 strength as the seedling grows.

Vegetative Stage (2 - 6+ weeks):

Once your plant has developed a good root system and several sets of true leaves (leaves with a typical serrated cannabis shape), it enters the vegetative stage. This is the time when your plant will experience explosive growth, and it’s crucial to provide it with the right nutrients, light, and environment. Autoflowering strains will typically spend 2-4 weeks in the vegetative stage, while photoperiodic strains can remain in this phase for several months, depending on the light cycle.Maintain a light cycle of 16-20 hours of light per day, and keep the temperature between 20-30°C.

Cannabis plant grown indoors week 4

Tip: As your plant grows, you may need to train it to promote an even canopy and maximize light exposure. Techniques like low stress training, topping or more can be used to control the height and shape of your plant, while also increasing yield potential. Read more here

Cannabis training techniques by Seed and Soil SA

Pre-Flowering (4 - 6+ weeks):

As your plant matures, it will begin to show signs of its sex. This typically occurs after 7-8 weeks of growth for photoperiodic strains, and after 4-5 weeks for autoflowering strains. The leaves at the branch ends will start to grow more densely and female plants will develop white pistils (hairs) at the nodes, while male plants will produce pollen sacs that look like balls. If you’re growing from feminised seeds, you should not have to worry about male plants. However, if you do spot a male, remove it immediately to prevent it from pollinating your females and causing them to produce seeds instead of buds.

Autoflower at the beginning of flowering

Tip: During the pre-flowering stage, it’s important to monitor your plants closely and address any potential issues early. Make sure you have enough space for your plants and roots to grow rapidly both inside your grow room and inside its pot. Flowering plants can more than double their size so make sure you address any problems and needs early such as transplanting, nutrient deficiencies or pests. Maintain a balanced watering schedule and ensure a proper ventilation and air circulated environment if growing indoors.

Flowering Stage (6 - 12+ weeks):

The flowering stage is when the magic happens. Autoflowering strains will automatically enter this phase after 4-5 weeks, while photoperiodic strains require a change in the light cycle (usually 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness) to trigger flowering. During the early weeks of flowering, your plants will stretch significantly, sometimes more than doubling in height. This is known as the “flowering stretch,” and it is important to manage this growth, support the branches, and to maintain an even canopy or to prevent the overcrowding of the grow space.

Autoflower week 7 growth stretch

As the flowers develop, they’ll become denser and more resinous, and your plants will require higher levels of phosphorus and potassium to support its bud production. Adjust your nutrient solution to lean more towards phosphorus and potassium. A bloom fertilizer with an NPK ratio of around higher in those elements is recommended. Maintain a slightly lower  temperature range of 18-26°C and a relative humidity level of 40-50% to prevent mold and mildew from growing on the leaves or bud sites.

The ideal temperatures and humidity for autoflowers

Tip: In the later stages of flowering, you may notice the leaves beginning to yellow and die off. This is a natural process known as “senescence,” and it’s a sign that your plant is channeling all its energy into bud production. Remove any dead or dying leaves to improve airflow and prevent mold growth.

Defoliation guide to cannabis

Ripening and Flushing (9 - 12 weeks):

As your plants approach the end of their life cycle  all growth will stop. It’s important to monitor the trichomes (the tiny, mushroom-shaped glands that produce cannabinoids and terpenes) under magnification to determine the ideal harvest time. When the trichomes turn from clear to milky white, with some beginning to turn amber, it’s time to start flushing your plants with plain water to remove any residual nutrients and improve the flavor and smoothness of your final product.

Autoflowering weed getting fat before harvest

Tip: Flushing involves watering your plants with plain, pH-balanced water for the final 1-2 weeks before harvest. This helps to remove any built-up salts and nutrients in the growing medium, which can affect the taste and quality of your buds. During this time, your plants may show signs of nutrient deficiencies, but this is normal and should not be a cause for concern

When to harvest guide by Seed and Soil SA

Harvesting and Drying (1 - 2 weeks):

Once your plants have reached peak maturity, it’s time to harvest. The ideal harvest window is when 70-80% of the trichomes have turned milky white, with the remaining 20-30% turning amber or 80% or more of the white hairy pistols have gone brown on the plant. Cut down your plant in sections and remove the large fan leaves. Hang the branches upside down similar to biltong in a dark, well-ventilated space with a temperature of 16-22°C and a relative humidity of 45-55% to dry.

After 10-14 days, depending on the drying conditions, and when the smaller branches snap instead of bend, your buds are ready to be trimmed and placed in airtight containers for curing.

Drying your buds after harvest

Curing (4 - 12+ weeks):

Curing is an essential process that helps to preserve the flavor, aroma, and potency of your buds. Cure your buds for at least 2-3 weeks by placing them in a glass jar or airtight container, opening the jars daily for the first week or two to allow for air exchange and to prevent mold growing. After the first two weeks, you can open the jars once every few days or less if you use humidity regulating packs.
Proper curing can take several months, but the longer you cure your buds, the better they will ultimately taste and smell. Store your cured buds in airtight containers in a cool, dark place to maintain their quality and potency and vent with fresh air occasionally

AK-47 autoflower the strain of choice for SA home growers

Conclusion:

Growing cannabis is a rewarding experience that requires patience, attention to detail, and a willingness to learn. By understanding the intricacies of the cannabis life cycle and providing your plants with the optimal growing conditions at each stage, you can maximize your yield and produce amazing high-quality buds.

Remember, every grow and strain is unique, and you may encounter challenges along the way. Keep a close eye on your plants, monitor their progress, and be prepared to make adjustments as needed. With practice and dedication, you’ll soon be harvesting top-shelf buds that you can be proud of.

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Why We Love Autoflowers

Why We lLove Autoflowers:
The Advantages of Autoflowering Cannabis for South African Home Growers

We Love Autoflowers at Seed and Soil

At Seed and Soil SA, we are dedicated to helping South African home growers grow cannabis legally and responsibly. After years of research and experience, considering all the variables, we have found that autoflowering cannabis strains are by far the best choice for home growers in South Africa. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore the numerous advantages of autoflowers and why we exclusively sell them.

Resilience to Pests and Diseases:

One of the most significant advantages of autoflowering cannabis strains is their natural resilience to pests and diseases. This is especially important for most coastal home growers with tendencies to struggle with mold or pests in the area. Autoflowers have a shorter life cycle, which means they are less likely to be damaged or harmed significantly by harmful pests and diseases that will damage or destroy your crop long term. Additionally, their ruderalis genetics make them hardier and more adaptable to various growing conditions, further enhancing their resistance to common cannabis ailments.

Stealth Growing:

In South Africa, the law allows for a maximum of 8 cannabis plants per household with two adults or more. Even so, the historic view of the plant and uneducated nosey neighbors can cause unnecessary headaches.  Autoflowers are the perfect choice for stealth growing, as they typically remain smaller and more compact than photoperiodic strains easily hiding between other plants or indoors. This makes it easier to maintain a discreet grow operation without drawing unwanted attention. Their shorter stature also allows for more efficient use of your grow space, enabling you to maximize your legal plant count indoors.

Load Shedding Proof:

South Africa has been grappling with loadshedding for years which can be a significant challenge for indoor cannabis growers. Autoflowers are virtually load shedding proof, as they do not rely on specific light cycles to flower nor get stressed by quick outages. This means that even if your grow is mid-flowering, your autoflowers will continue to grow and mature without any issues or turning into hermies

Budget-Friendly:

Growing autoflowers is often more budget-friendly compared to growing regular strains. Autos have a shorter life cycle, typically ranging from 9 to 12 weeks from seed to harvest. This means that you can achieve similar yield results with less soil and smaller pots, plus multiple harvests per year, reducing the overall cost of your grow operation. Additionally, autoflowers require less nutrients and water than photoperiodic strains, further minimising your expenses.

Lower Nutrient and Water Requirements:

Autoflowering cannabis strains have lower nutrient and water requirements compared to their photoperiodic counterparts. This is due to their genetics, smaller size and shorter life cycle, which means they consume fewer resources overall. For home growers, this translates to lower costs for nutrients and water, as well as less time spent on overall maintenance.

An auto flower growth cycle from seed to harvest

Multiple Harvests Per Year:

One of the most significant advantages of growing autoflowers is the ability to achieve multiple harvests per year. With a shorter life cycle of just 10 weeks from seed to harvest, you can easily fit in 4 to 5 harvests per year, depending on your setup and growing conditions. This is a massive advantage for home growers, as it allows for a more consistent supply of cannabis and helps to maximize the output of your grow operation.

Faster Turnaround Times:

Faster turnaround times are another key benefit of growing autoflowers. Traditional photoperiodic strains can take up to 20 weeks or more from seed to harvest, with the flowering phase alone taking 8 to 10 weeks. In contrast, autoflowers can be ready to harvest in as little as 10 weeks from seed. This shorter turnaround time means that you can enjoy your homegrown cannabis sooner and start your next grow cycle faster.

Improved Genetics and Potency:

 In the past, autoflowering cannabis strains were considered inferior to photoperiodic strains in terms of potency and yield. However, thanks to extensive research and development, modern autoflowers can rival or even surpass the THC and CBD levels of their photoperiodic counterparts. At Seed and Soil SA, we have carefully selected autoflowering genetics that offer both high potency and impressive yields, ensuring that our customers can enjoy top-quality harvests without compromising on quantity.

The beautiful colours of a Do-Si-Dos Autoflower plant main cola
Amnesia Auto by Seed and Soil SA

Easier to Grow and Maintain:

Autoflowers are generally easier to grow and maintain compared to photoperiodic strains. Their shorter life cycle and resilient nature make them more forgiving for new growers, and their limitless potential make them appealing for seasoned cultivars. They are less likely to be affected by minor mistakes or fluctuations in conditions but also supercharged with potential and massive yields when grown with experience. Autoflowers require less training and pruning, as they naturally grow in a compact, bushy structure. This means that even those with limited growing space, time or experience can achieve successful harvests with autoflowers.

Better Suited for South African Growing Conditions:

South Africa is known for its diverse climate, with some regions experiencing extreme heat, cold, or humidity depending on the season. Autoflowers are particularly well-suited to these varying conditions, as they are more resilient to temperature fluctuations and can thrive in a wide range of environments. Their ruderalis genetics, inherited from cannabis plants native to harsh climates, make them adaptable and able to withstand most of the challenges posed by South African growing conditions.

Conclusion:

At Seed and Soil SA, we believe that autoflowering cannabis strains are the best choice for South African home growers hands down. Their resilience, adaptability, and ease of growth make them an excellent option for novice and experienced growers alike. By choosing autoflowers, you can maximize your legal plant count, achieve faster, more regular harvests, and enjoy top-quality cannabis year-round.

While some may argue that autoflowers have smaller yields or lower THC levels compared to photoperiodic strains, they do not take into consideration the speed, shortened flower period and ease of growth these plants provide. Our carefully selected autoflower range has been bred to offer the best of both worlds and boast impressive potency and yields, with unmatched turn around times, rivaling even the best traditional photoperiod strains.

In conclusion, if you’re a South African home grower looking to cultivate cannabis legally and efficiently, autoflowers are the way to go. At Seed and Soil SA, we offer a range of high-quality auto seeds and grow kits designed to help you achieve the best possible results. Read more or buy seeds and grow kits on our website today to start your journey towards a successful and rewarding growing experience.

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 How To Use Our Grow Kits

How to Use the Seed and Soil All-In-One Grow Kits

Congratulations on purchasing a Seed and Soil All-In-One Grow Kit! You’re on your way to a rewarding cannabis growing experience. If you’re still considering a purchase, this guide will provide insight into our grow kits and the care and effort we put into each one. Follow these step-by-step instructions to get started.

Seed and Soil Grow kits for cannabis

What's in the Box?

Each kit includes the following items:

  • 1x Pot (plastic or fabric)
  • 1x Drip Tray
  • 5x Craft Soil Blended Bags (no# 1 – 5)
  • 1x Seed Pack (2pc)
  • 1x Plant Tag
  • 2x Nutrient Solutions
  • 1x Germination Pod
  • 1x Humidity Cup
  • 1x Measuring Spoon
  • 1x Grow Tips Booklet
  • 1x Grow Guide Manual
The Seed and Soil All in one grow kit

Step 1: Germinate Your Seeds

Germinating your seeds is the first exciting step. Use the germination pod provided or another trusted method like a wet paper towel:

  1. Prepare the Pod: Fill the bottom cup with bottled water up to the line. Place the funnel-like middle piece over the bottom cup and clip it into place. Make sure there’s only a few drops of water in the middle funnel to soak your seed.
  2. Soak the Seed: Place your seed into the water, gently dunk it once, and cover the pod. Place it in a warm, dark area (around 25°C and 65% humidity).
  3. Wait and Watch: After soaking your seeds for 24-48 hours. You should see the outer shell crack open and a small white root appear. Some strains take longer, so be patient. If no root appears after four days, the seed might be a dud.

Pro Tip: If both seeds provided in the kitdo not germinate, check our terms and conditions and contact us for a free replacement.

Seed and Soil Germination pod
Cannabis germination pods by Seed and Soil SA
Cannabis Seed Germination
Seed and Soil Layered Soil For cannabis

Step 2: Prepare Your Soil

While your seeds are germinating, let’s prepare the soil:

  1. Layer the Soil: Start with bag no. 1 (leca clay balls for drainage), followed by bags no. 2 and 3. Gently water each layer as you add it to moisten without drowning.
  2. Mix and Fluff: After adding bag no. 4, mix and break up the soil until it’s light and fluffy. Dig a small hole (5cm x 5cm) in the center and add bag no. 5 (special seedling mix). Water the entire pot lightly.
  3. Plant the Seed: Once your seed has germinated, plant it 1 knuckle deep in the center of the pot. Cover with soil and water the area with the remaining water from the pod. Place the humidity cup over the planted seed to keep it moist.

Step 3: Planting Your Seed

By now, your seed should have sprouted a small taproot. If not, give it a bit more time. When ready:

    1. Prepare the Hole: Make a small hole (1.5-2cm deep) in the center of the soil.
    2. Plant the Seed: Use the provided spoon to place the seed in the hole without touching it. Try to position the root downward, but don’t worry if it’s not perfect.
    3. Cover and Moisten: Gently cover the seed with soil and moisten the top layer with a few milliliters of water from the pod or a spray bottle. Place the humidity cup over the pot. Your plant should sprout within 2-5 days. Maintain a temperature of 22-28°C for optimal results.
Seed and Soil Humidity cup week 1

Watering Schedule

For the first week or two, your plant won’t need much water. The humidity cup helps keep the soil moist.

  • First 21 Days: Water once a week or less.
  • Week 3 to Week 6: Water every 3-5 days, depending on temperature.
  • Final Weeks: Water more frequently, but always check the pot’s weight to judge moisture levels. Water slowly and away from the stem, using 2-3 liters per pot.

Pro Tip: The top soil may seem dry, but the deeper layers remain moist. Overwatering is more harmful than underwatering.

Nutrients

Your grow kit includes two nutrient bottles:

  • Bottle #1 (Veg): Use from week 2 onward, mixing 5ml with 2 liters of unchlorinated water.
  • Bottle #2 (Bloom): Use from weeks 4 to 8, mixing 5ml with 2 liters of unchlorinated water.

Pro Tip: Nutrients are optional. The soil mix already contains necessary nutrients. Overfeeding can harm your plant, so stick to the recommended schedule.

BioBizz Bio Grow - Organic cannabis fertiliser
Biobizz Bio Bloom cannabis nutrients
Indoor grow fan with clip grip
Ludwigs Organic insect spray

Pest Control

Ensure good airflow to prevent pests and mold. Use a fan indoors and monitor for issues like white powdery mildew and spider mites. Homemade organic pest control sprays are available on our website.

By following this guide as well as the one provided in your kit, you’ll be well on your way to a successful and enjoyable growing experience. Happy growing!

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Homemade Pest Control Remedies

Homemade and Organic Pest Control Remedies

In addition to the commercial pest control products we sell, there are several effective homemade and organic solutions that can help manage pests and diseases in your garden. These solutions are often safer, more environmentally friendly, and less likely to affect the quality of your final product.

500ml spray bottle

Dish soap:

Dish soap like sunlight liquid is a great way to deter leaf sucking insects like spider mites or aphids. Mix 1 teaspoon with one liter of water and spray the plant. Do not make the mixture too strong as it can harm your plants if used excessively. The soapy film left behind on the leaves will create an unpleasant taste and texture, discouraging pests from consuming the plant while simultaneously suffocating them, effectively reducing their desire to feed on the treated foliage.

Canola oil:

All vegetable oils are great for keeping sap-sucking pests like mites or aphids at bay but canola oil is considered one of the best types. Mix a tablespoon of oil with a teaspoon of sunlight soap to emulsify it into 1 liter of water and spray over your leaves. The oil suffocates the soft bodied insects by blocking their air holes.

Hydrogen peroxide:

A hydrogen peroxide and water mixture of 1:1 can be extremely beneficial as a natural pest control method. Be aware though that while this solution is not harmful to your plant itself in low quantities, it kills all  bacteria, insect larvae and fungal spores, so it also kills beneficial microbes and other potentially beneficial organisms like earthworms.

Bicarb & Water:

 Bicarbonate of soda or baking soda and water mixtures are 100% organic and can be a powerful homemade pesticide when used as foliar spray. Combine it with neem oil or insecticidal soaps for the best results. Mix 1 -2 teaspoons of baking soda with 1 liter of water and spray the infected areas of a plant weekly or as a preventative measure.

Chili Garlic Oil:

Chili garlic oil is a powerful, all-natural pest repellent that can be easily made at home using simple ingredients. The combination of garlic and chili peppers creates a potent mixture that deters a wide range of common garden pests, including aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies.
Garlic contains sulfur compounds that emit a strong odor, which can effectively repel pests. Chili peppers, on the other hand, contain capsaicin, a compound that gives them their signature heat and acts as a natural insecticide. When combined with oil, these ingredients form a long-lasting, water-resistant barrier on plant leaves, making them less appealing to pests. When preparing or applying the chili garlic oil spray, wear gloves and avoid getting the spray in your eyes.
Blend a couple of chillies and some garlic into a 1:1 oil and water solution of no more than 1 liter. Let the mixture rest for at least 24 hours. Blend it again and dilute it 1:10 with water before spraying the plants.

Neem Oil:

Neem oil is a versatile, organic pest control solution that works against a wide range of insects and mites. It disrupts the life cycle of pests and can also prevent fungal diseases like powdery mildew.

Cinnamon Powder:

Cinnamon boasts both antibacterial and antifungal properties, making it an effective tool for minimizing fungal growth in your potting soil. This deters fungus gnats as their food source is depleted. It also dehydrates them in a similar way to diatomaceous earth.  Simply sprinkle some cinnamon powder over the top layer of your soil after each watering to deter fungus gnats

Diatomaceous Earth:

Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a naturally occurring, soft, sedimentary rock that is easily crumbled into a fine, off-white powder. It is composed of the fossilized remains of single-celled aquatic organisms called diatoms and is a powerful and versatile tool in the world of organic pest control.
The microscopic, razor-sharp edges of the diatomaceous earth particles lacerate exoskeletons, causing pests to dehydrate and ultimately die. Making it very effective against fungus gnats, thrips, or spider mites. Diatomaceous earth is safe for humans and larger animals, making it an excellent choice for eco-conscious cannabis growers.
To use diatomaceous earth in your cannabis garden, simply sprinkle a fine layer of the powder on the surface of your soil, around the base of your plants, or in areas where pests are likely to congregate. DE will continue to work as long as it remains dry, so be sure to reapply after watering or rain. For added protection, you can also create a DE solution by mixing 1 tablespoon of DE with 1 liter of water and apply it as a foliar spray. This method is particularly effective against soft-bodied pests like aphids and whiteflies.

Insecticidal Soap Mixtures:

These are potassium based soaps easily found in any gardening aisle. They effectively control soft-bodied insects like aphids, thrips, and whiteflies. They work by disrupting the insect’s cell membranes, causing dehydration and death.

Vinegar Water Mix:

A vinegar and water solution will kill or repel most garden pests. Mix 1 tablespoons of vinegar with 2 liters of water, and spray over plants weekly.

Plant Oils:

Natural oil extracts like ludwigs insect spray contain organic extracts and oils such as, garlic, canola, soybean, or mineral oils, which can smother and kill various insects and mites, including spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies. They also help control fungal diseases by preventing spore germination.

Beneficial insects:

Mites or other insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory mites, can help manage pest populations naturally. These organisms feed on common cannabis pests, keeping their numbers in check without the need for chemical interventions.

Companion Planting:

This encoumpases planting certain companion plants alongside your cannabis crop to help repel pests and attract beneficial insects. Examples include basil, marigolds, and chamomile, to help deter aphids, thrips, or whiteflies.

Milk Spray:

Mixing 1 part milk with 9 parts water creates an effective foliar spray against powdery mildew. The proteins in milk help combat the fungus and boost the plant’s natural defenses. Apply the solution weekly as a preventative measure or more frequently if signs of infection appear.

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Cannabis Ruderalis – The Autoflower

Cannabis Ruderalis A.K.A The Autoflower

History:

Cannabis Ruderalis is a subspecies of the cannabis plant that originates from the harsh climates of Russia and Central Asia. It evolved to survive in these challenging conditions by developing the ability to flower automatically based on age, rather than relying on changes in light cycles like Sativa and Indica strains. Modern autoflowering cannabis strains generally have a majority blend of both Sativa and Indica in their genetics, but what makes them flower automatically is the trace amounts of the Ruderalis genes that can make up anywhere from 1% -5% or more of their lineage. Ruderalis literally translates into ”pavement weed” because it is so hardy and it used to pop up everywhere between the pavements of Russia. In the 1970s, breeders began experimenting with crossing Ruderalis with other cannabis strains, leading to the development of modern autoflowering strains.

Although modern autoflowers only contain a small percentage of Ruderalis genes, they still have very hardy and resilient characteristics making them increasingly popular for home growers and commercial cultivars alike.

Benefits:

Autoflowering strains offer several advantages for growers:

  1. Fast growth cycle: Autoflowers typically go from seed to harvest in just 8-10 weeks.
  2. Compact size: These plants usually stay small, making them ideal for discreet growing or limited space.
  3. Resilience: Thanks to their Ruderalis genes, autoflowers are more resistant to pests, diseases, and environmental stressors.
  4. Economical: Autoflowers require less water and nutrients
  5. Year-round growing: Since they don’t rely on light cycles, autoflowers can be grown outdoors multiple times per year.

Popularity:

Autoflowering strains have gained significant popularity both among new and experienced growers in recent years. The ease of growing, fast turnover, and resilience to loadshedding make them an attractive choice for many cultivators in South Africa. Since the 2000’s rapid advancements in breeding have led to autoflowering strains with higher potency and yields, further increasing their appeal.

Potency:

In the past, autoflowers were known for having lower THC content compared to photoperiod strains. However, modern breeding techniques have allowed for the development of autoflowering strains with THC levels comparable to their photoperiod counterparts. Modern autoflower strains with THC levels exceeding 20% have become quite common with some reaching levels of 25% or higher.

Cultivation:

Growing autoflowering cannabis plants is relatively simple, as they don’t require a change in light cycle to begin flowering. They also tend to be less demanding in terms of nutrients and water. However, due to their short life cycle, any mistakes or stressors can significantly impact yields. The opposite is also true so providing the right growing conditions, including well-draining soil, proper pH, and adequate light, one can achieve amazing results. Experienced growers have started to come back to autoflowers to challenge and sharpen their growing skills. The shortened timeline of these plants mean you can push them to the max with 24 hours of light and really test your growing capabilities and cannabis knowledge.

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Compost Teas for Cannabis

Compost Teas for Cannabis: The Ultimate Guide to Boosting Your Organic Grow

Cannabis compost tea

If you’re looking for a natural and effective way to give your organic cannabis grow a serious boost, look no further than compost teas. These nutrient-rich home brews are packed with beneficial microorganisms, vitamins, and minerals that can take your plants to the next level.

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll dive deep into the world of compost teas for cannabis. We’ll explore the benefits of using them, provide a step-by-step guide on how to brew your own and discuss the different types of teas.

What are Compost Teas?

Think of it like making a big batch of tea, but instead of using tea leaves, you’re using compost or worm poop. Compost teas are essentially homemade liquid fertilizers made by hanging a bag of compost in water similar to a tea bag. During this process, the beneficial microorganisms, nutrients, and other goodies in the compost are extracted into the water, creating a concentrated liquid that’s perfect for feeding your cannabis plants and is easily absorbed.

How to make a Compost tea for weed

The Benefits of Using Compost Teas for Cannabis

  1. It enhances plant growth and vigor
  2. It improves soil structure and water retention
  3. It boosts plant immunity and disease resistance
  4. It increases nutrient availability and uptake
  5. It promotes the growth of beneficial microorganisms in the soil
  6. It provides a natural alternative to synthetic fertilizers

Compost teas are essentially a way to supercharge your soil and give your plants everything they need to thrive. By introducing a diverse array of beneficial microbes and nutrients, you’re creating a healthy, living soil that can support robust plant growth.

Different Types of Compost Teas:

Not all compost teas are created equal. In fact, there are two main types of compost teas: bacterial teas and fungal teas.

Bacterial teas are dominated by, you guessed it, bacteria. These teas are great for fast-growing annuals like cannabis, as the bacteria help to quickly break down nutrients and make them available to the plants.

Fungal teas, on the other hand, are dominated by beneficial fungi. These teas are better suited for perennial plants and trees, as the fungi help to create a more stable, long-term soil structure.

For cannabis, we recommend sticking with bacterial teas. These teas are easier to make and are more suitable for the rapid growth and nutrient demands of cannabis plants.

Equipment Needed for Brewing Bacterial Compost Teas

Can and should are two different things. You certainly can grow up to 10 or more plants per square meter, but tha

Before we get into the nitty-gritty of how to make compost teas, let’s go over the equipment you’ll need:

  1. A large bucket or container (20 liters or more)
  2. An aquarium air pump and airstone with a long tube
  3. A mesh bag or cheesecloth
  4. A stirring stick or wooden spoon
  5. A sugar source like unsulfured molasses (optional)
  6. High-quality compost or worm castings
Garden compost

Step-by-Step Guide to Brewing Compost Tea:

Once you have your equipment ready, it’s time to start brewing! Here’s a simple step-by-step guide to making your own compost tea:

  1. Fill your bucket with unchlorinated water. If you’re using tap water, let it sit out overnight to allow any chlorine to evaporate. Chlorine kills the microorganisms in tap water which is ok for humans to drink but bad for plants and making compost teas
  2. Add 1-2 cups of high-quality compost and/or worm castings to your mesh bag or cheesecloth. Tie it off and place it in the water.
  3. Add 1-2 tablespoons of unsulfured molasses to the water or some blended sugary fruit or even brown sugar. These sugars will feed the microbes and help them multiply.
  4. Place your air stone in the water and turn on your air pump. This will oxygenate the tea mix and keep the microbes happy and healthy.
  5. Agitate the bag and its contents properly for a minute or two to make sure all the solid materials are broken up and able to mix with the water. Try to place the bag directly above the bubbles of the air pump.
  6. Let your tea brew for 24-36 hours in a warm environment similar to your grow room, stirring  and agitating occasionally. The tea should have a pleasant, earthy smell. If it smells foul or rotten, something went wrong and you should start over.
  7. After brewing, remove the compost bag and use the tea immediately. You can apply it as a soil drench or a foliar spray, diluting it 1:2 with water or more if needed.

And there you have it! With a little patience and the right ingredients, you can brew up a batch of nutrient-rich compost tea that your cannabis plants will love.

Compost Tea Tips and Tricks:

Before we wrap up, here are a few final tips to help you get the most out of your compost teas:

  1. Use high-quality ingredients. The better your compost and other additives, the better your tea will be.
  2. Don’t over-brew your tea. Anything longer than 36 hours can cause the microbes to start dying off.
  3. Apply your tea as soon as possible after brewing. The microbes are most active and beneficial when the tea is fresh.
  4. Experiment with different recipes and ratios to find what works best for your plants and growing conditions.
  5. Have fun and enjoy the process! Brewing compost teas can be a fun and rewarding way to connect with your plants and improve your organic growing skills.
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How To Buffer Your Soil

Buffering Your Soil: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you’re looking to optimize your growing medium and ensure your plants have access to all the essential nutrients they need, you might have heard about the importance of buffering your soil or coco with cal-mag. In this guide, we’ll dive into the details of why cal-mag is crucial for your plants, and provide a step-by-step guide on how to properly buffer your growing medium.

Worm Castings, a natural soil amendment

What is Cal-Mag and Why is it Important?

Cal-mag is a supplement that contains calcium and magnesium, two essential nutrients that play a vital role in your plant growth and development. Calcium is crucial for cell wall formation, root development, and nutrient uptake, while magnesium is a key component of chlorophyll and aids in photosynthesis.

In the context of homegrown cannabis, cal-mag is particularly important when using an inert and neutral growing medium like coco coir. This medium often has a limited capacity to hold onto calcium and magnesium though, which can lead to deficiencies in the long term if not supplemented properly. Most of the crafted cannabis soil mixtures including our own are buffered with a cal mag solution already so this guide generally only applies to untreated dried and compressed bricks of coco or native soil.

Why Buffering is Crucial for Compressed Coco Bricks

Compressed coco bricks are a popular choice among growers due to their affordability and ease of long term storage. However, some of these bricks are untreated and can come with some hefty challenges.

Coco coir has a natural tendency to bind to calcium and magnesium ions, making these nutrients less available to plants. Compressed coco bricks can also contain high levels of salts and a less-than-ideal pH levels, which can further impact nutrient availability.

By properly buffering your coco brick first, prior to use, you can address these issues and create a more hospitable environment for your cannabis roots. The buffering process helps to release excess salts, balance the pH, and preload the coco with calcium and magnesium, making sure your plants have access to these essential nutrients from the start.

When purchasing compressed coco look for brands that have already been pH balanced and buffered.

Signs of Calcium and Magnesium Deficiencies

Before we get into the buffering process, let’s quickly review the signs of calcium and magnesium deficiencies in cannabis plants: read more Here

Calcium deficiency:

  1. Stunted growth
  2. Curled or twisted leaves
  3. Brown or yellow spots on leaves
  4. Weak stems and branches

Magnesium deficiency:

  1. Yellowing of older leaves, starting on leaf edges leaving leaf veins green
  2. Leaves curling upwards
  3. Rusty brown spots on leaves
  4. Leaves eventually turning crispy and falling off

If you notice any of these signs in your plants, it’s a good indication that your growing medium might benefit from a cal-mag supplement

Calcium deficiency in cannabis
Magnesium deficiency in cannabis plants

Step-by-Step Guide to Buffering with Cal-Mag

Let’s get into the nitty-gritty of how to actually buffer your soil or coco with cal-mag:

Step 1: Choose a fast absorbing Quality Cal-Mag Supplement: When selecting a cal-mag supplement, look for a reputable brand that contains both calcium and magnesium in a form that’s easily absorbed by plants. Some popular options include dolomite lime, gypsum, granules or liquid cal-mag concentrates.

Step 2: Determine The Right Supplement Rate: The amount of cal-mag you’ll need to add to your growing medium will depend on factors like the size of your pots, the type of medium you’re using, and the specific cal-mag product you’ve chosen. As a general rule of thumb, aim for the 1 teaspoon of cal-mag concentrate for every 2 liters of water, however, always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for the most accurate dosing guidelines.

Step 3: Incorporate Cal-Mag into Your Growing Medium: For coco coir, you can either mix the cal-mag concentrate into your nutrient solution with each watering, or pre-buffer your coco by soaking it in a cal-mag solution before use.

Incorporating Cal-Mag into Your Coco Coir:

When it comes to growing cannabis in coco coir, one of the most important steps is to properly buffer your growing medium with cal-mag. This is especially true when using a cheaper, untreated compressed coco brick, which can be less forgiving than pre-buffered, store-bought coco blends. In this guide, we’ll take a closer look at the process of buffering compressed coco bricks to create an optimal growing environment for your cannabis plants.

Terra Aquatica Calcium Magnesium supplement

Step-by-Step Guide to Buffering Compressed Coco Bricks

Now, let’s walk through the process of buffering a compressed coco brick step by step:

Step 1: Hydrate and Rinse the Coco Brick: Begin by placing your compressed coco brick in a large container or tub. Slowly add water, allowing the brick to absorb the moisture and expand over time. As the coco expands, break it apart with your hands to ensure an even hydration.

Once the coco is fully hydrated, thoroughly strain and  rinse it with fresh water to help flush out any excess salts, powders or debris. Continue rinsing until the water runs clear.

Step 2: Prepare Your Cal-Mag Buffering Solution: In a separate container, mix a cal-mag concentrate according to the manufacturer’s instructions. A typical ratio is around 3-5 milliliters of concentrate per liter of water, but this can vary depending on the product you’re using.

Aim to create enough buffer solution to fully saturate, soak and rehydrate the coco coir. As a general rule, you’ll need about 1 liter of solution for every 5 liters of expanded coco.

Step 3: Soak the Coco in the Buffer Solution: Add your cal-mag buffer solution to the rinsed coco coir. Make sure the coco is fully submerged, stirring it gently to eliminate any air pockets.

Allow the coco to soak in the buffer solution for at least 6-8 hours, or overnight for best results. This extended soak time gives the coco ample opportunity to absorb the calcium and magnesium ions, ensuring a more even distribution throughout the medium.

Step 4: Drain and Rinse the Buffered Coco: After the soaking period, drain the excess buffer solution from the coco. Give the coco a final rinse with fresh, pH-balanced water to remove any residual salts.

The runoff water should be close to the ideal pH range for coco (5.5-6.5). If it’s still outside this range, you may need to repeat the buffering process or adjust the pH of your water accordingly.

Step 5: Plant and Monitor Your buffered coco is now ready for use! Fill your pots or containers with the coco, and proceed with planting your cannabis seeds or clones. Remember to add perlite and other amendments for hydration and nutrients

As your plants grow, continue to monitor them closely for any signs of calcium or magnesium deficiencies. While the initial buffering process should provide a solid foundation, you may still need to supplement with additional cal-mag throughout the growing cycle, especially during periods of rapid growth or flowering.

Growing media and soil for cannabis category image

Tips for Success

Here are a few additional tips to keep in mind when buffering your soil or coco with cal-mag:

  1. Start with a lower dose and gradually increase as needed to avoid overloading your plants with these nutrients.
  2. If using a liquid cal-mag concentrate, always shake the bottle well before measuring and applying.
  3. Consider using a cal-mag supplement in conjunction with other nutrient-rich amendments like worm castings, compost, or kelp meal for a well-rounded fertilization program.
  4. Remember that while cal-mag is important, it’s not a cure-all for every growing issue. Always considering factors like watering, temperature, humidity, and overall nutrient balance.

Conclusion:

Buffering your compressed coco brick with cal-mag is a critical step in creating a healthy growing environment for your cannabis plants. By following the steps outlined above and monitoring your plants closely, you can avoid common pitfalls associated with untreated coco and set your grow up for success.

While store-bought coco blends offer a more streamlined approach, buffering your own coco allows for greater customization and cost savings in the long run. Ultimately, the choice between the two comes down to your personal growing style, budget, and preferences.

With a solid foundation of properly buffered coco and a watchful eye, you’ll be well on your way to cultivating thriving cannabis plants and enjoying massive harvests.

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Defoliation: The Art of Pruning

Defoliation: Mastering the Art of Pruning

As a cannabis cultivator, you know that every leaf on your plant serves a purpose – capturing sunlight, storing water and facilitating photosynthesis. But did you know that strategically removing certain leaves could actually benefit your plant’s growth and yield? That’s the magic of defoliation!

Unlike lollipopping, which involves stripping the bottom leaves and branches in flower, defoliation is an ongoing process of selectively removing leaves throughout the plant’s entire life cycle. When done correctly, it can work wonders for your cannabis garden.
Let’s dive into the benefits and best practices of this technique:

Defoliation guide to cannabis

Why Defoliate?

  1. Better Airflow: Cannabis plants can quickly become bushy, leading to poor airflow, overlapping leaves and increased risk of pests and diseases. Defoliation opens up the canopy, allowing air to circulate freely and keeping your precious bud sites healthy.
  2. More Light, More Growth: By removing strategic leaves, you’re giving those lower branches and bud sites a chance to bask in the glory of direct light, boosting their growth and potentially increasing your yields.
  3. Efficient Energy Use: Each leaf consumes a portion of the plant’s energy and nutrients to stay alive. By pruning unnecessary, fully grown or shaded leaves, your cannabis can redirect those resources towards more productive areas of growth.
  4. Pest Control: A dense, bushy canopy creates the perfect hiding spot for pests like spider mites, thrips, and fungus gnats. Defoliation eliminates or exposes pests to predators and making it easier to spot and treat early on.

Defoliation Best Practices:

Now that you know the benefits, let’s dive into how to defoliate like a pro:

  1. Timing is Key: Avoid defoliating during the seedling and early vegetative stages. Your little ones will need all the leaves they can get to establish a strong root system and photosynthetic capacity. Wait at least two weeks before considering defoliation for photoperiod strains, and be extra cautious with autoflowers, rather perform low stress training first.
  2. Go Slow and Steady: Defoliation is a marathon, not a sprint. Remove leaves gradually, prioritizing fully grown ones with large stems. Removing too many at once can stress your plant and stunt its growth. it is not recommended to remove more than 3-4 leaves per week.
  3. Prioritize Older Leaves: When deciding which leaves to remove, always target the older, fully developed fan leaves first. These mature leaves have already done their job of supporting the plant’s early growth and are now consuming more resources than they’re producing. Pruning them allows the plant to reallocate its energy towards newer growth.
  4. Be Selective: Focus on removing leaves that block bud sites, lower branches, or cause excessive shading. Bend and tuck leaves out of the way whenever possible first – and never go full-on Edward Scissorhands.
  5. Cleanliness is important: Use clean, sterilized scissors or pruning shears to avoid spreading infections or damaging your plant’s main stem. You don’t want to invite any unwanted guests to the party!
  6. Leave a Stem Stub: When cutting leaves, leave at least a 1cm of the leaf stem attached to the main stem. This little stub acts as a barrier, preventing potential infections or damage and will eventually fall off.
  7. Autoflower Alert: Autoflowering strains have a predetermined life cycle, making them more sensitive to stress from defoliation. Tread lightly, and defoliate only small amounts if necessary.
  8. Observe and Adjust: Every strain and growing environment is unique. Monitor your plants’ response to defoliation after a few days and adjust your technique accordingly. Communication is key in any healthy relationship – even with your cannabis plant.
Defoliation best practices by seed and soil sa

Conclusion:

By mastering the art of defoliation and implementing these best practices, you’ll create an optimal growing environment for your cannabis plants, promoting healthy growth, maximizing yields, and ultimately producing high-quality, potent buds that’ll leave you and your friends in awe.

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How Many Grams From One Plant

How Many Grams Of Weed Will One Plant Yield?

How many grams of weed will one plant grow

As a new grower, one of the most common questions you may ask is, “How many grams of weed will one plant produce?” The answer to this question is not straightforward, as it depends on various factors such as the type of plant (autoflower or photoperiod), growing conditions, training techniques, and genetics. In this guide, we’ll explore the factors that influence cannabis plant yields and provide you with a solid range of what you can expect from both autoflowering and photoperiod strains for planning your grow, estimating your yields, and staying within legal limits.

Factors That Affect Cannabis Plant Yields:

Before diving into specific yield estimates, it’s essential to understand the various factors that can impact how much flower one plant will produce:

  1. Genetics: The genetic makeup of a cannabis strain plays a significant role in determining its yield potential. Some strains are naturally higher yields than others.
  2. Grow environment: The quality of your grow environment, including factors such as light, temperature, humidity, and airflow, can greatly influence your plant’s yield.
  3. Grow medium: The choice of grow medium, such as soil, coco coir, or hydroponic systems, can impact your plant’s growth and yield.
  4. Nutrients: Providing your plants with the right balance of nutrients is crucial for optimal growth and yield.
  5. Training techniques: Employing various training techniques, such as topping, fimming, or low-stress training (LST), can help maximize your plant’s yield potential.
  6. Grower experience: As with any skill, the more experience you have in growing cannabis, the better equipped you’ll be to optimize your plants’ yields.

Yield Estimates for Autoflowering Cannabis Plants:

Autoflowering cannabis strains have gained major popularity in recent years due to their fast growth cycle, resilience, and ease of growth. While autoflowers were once known for lower yields compared to photoperiodic strains, modern genetics have made significant strides in terms of yield potential that rival most traditional strains

On average, a well-grown autoflowering cannabis plant can yield between 50 to 100+ grams when grown indoors under optimal conditions. Outdoors, an autoflowers yield can vary greatly due to the seasons but expect between 30 to 50 grams in winter and 50 to 100+ grams in summer, with some exceptional plants exceeding the 150-gram mark.

At Seed and Soil SA, our All-in-One Grow Kits and line of autoflowering genetics have been carefully selected and bred to offer impressive yields without compromising on quality. When grown under ideal conditions, our autoflowers can easily reach the upper end of these yield ranges.

Yield Estimates for Photoperiodic Cannabis Plants:

Photoperiodic cannabis strains require a change in the light cycle to transition from vegetative growth to flowering. This allows growers to control the size and yield of their plants by extending or shortening the vegetative phase.

The yield potential of photoperiodic plants can vary greatly depending on the length of the vegetative phase:

  • Short vegetative phase (2-4 weeks): 10 to 40 grams per plant
  • Medium vegetative phase (4-8 weeks): 50 to 100 grams per plant
  • Long vegetative phase (8+ weeks): 150 grams or more per plant

It’s important to note that these are rough estimates, and actual yields can vary significantly based on the factors mentioned earlier. Some experienced growers have reported yields exceeding 800 grams per plant when using advanced techniques and long vegging periods.

How Many Plants Can You Grow Per Square Meter Indoors?

Can and should are two different things. You certainly can grow up to 10 or more plants per square meter, but that does not mean you should. Since every South African home grower is legally limited to a maximum of 8 plants, we guess the short answer would never be more than 8. Growing too many plants in the same space will not necessarily increase your overall yields though. Overgrown grow rooms are prone to pests and mold. It can limit the airflow, light penetration, as well as be difficult to maintain overall. When two different cannabis plants touch, they tend to grow taller and lankier in an attempt to outgrow its neighbors to the light source. 

If you are growing indoors you ideally want to give your plant the best environment and care you possibly can. Since the structure of autoflowers are fairly set with limited training time we recommend 4 to a maximum of 5 autoflowering plants per 1 meter squared. As a Rule of thumb you’ll need at least 50cm x 50xm of space per plant for most autoflowers.

A guide to optimise your grow space

Maximizing Your Plants' Yield Potential:

To achieve the best possible yields from your cannabis plants, consider the following tips:

  1. Choose Quality Genetics: Select strains known for their high yield potential, such as our autoflowering genetics at Seed and Soil SA.

  2. Optimize your environment: Ensure your plants receive adequate light, maintain proper temperature and humidity levels, and provide good airflow.

  3. Uniformity: Growing only the same strains in one room is beneficial because it allows for a more even growth and canopy. Mixing up strains in one room can get complicated if you are not experienced with their various growth structures.

  4. Use quality growing media and nutrients: Choose a high-quality grow medium and provide your plants with a balanced nutrient regimen.

  5. Employ training techniques: Utilize training techniques like topping, fimming, or LST to encourage bushy growth and maximize light exposure.

  6. Monitor and address issues promptly: Regularly inspect your plants for signs of stress, deficiencies, or pests, and address any issues promptly to minimize their impact on yield.

  7. Avoid overcrowding: While it may be tempting to grow as many plants as possible, overcrowding can lead to reduced yields and increased risk of pests and diseases. For autoflowers, aim for a maximum of 4 plants per square meter to ensure optimal growth and yield.

Amnesia Autoflower showcasing large yields in an indoor grow setup

Conclusion:

In conclusion, the yield potential of a cannabis plant depends on numerous factors, including genetics, grow environment, and grower experience. While it’s impossible to provide an exact yield estimate for every plant, this guide should give you a solid range of what to expect from both autoflowering and photoperiod strains.

By choosing high-quality genetics, optimizing your grow environment, and employing the right techniques and feeding schedules, you can maximize your plants’ yield potential and achieve impressive harvests. At Seed and Soil SA, we are dedicated to providing South African home growers with the best autoflowering genetics and grow kits to help you reach your full potential as a cannabis cultivator.

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